Some embroidery stitches and their uses

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Part of Philippine Craftsman

Title
Some embroidery stitches and their uses
Creator
Minier, John F.
Robinson, R.B.
Language
English
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In Copyright - Educational Use Permitted
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fri'-he Philippine Craftsman VOL. 1 FEBRUARY, 1913. No. 8 SOME EMBROIDERY STITCHES AND THEIR USES. By JoliN F. MINIER and R. B. ROBINSON. (Photos by the Bureau of Education. Reprints auth<>rized giving cre.;Jit to the Bureau of Educ><tion, .lllani!a.) THE following article on embroidery stitches has been prepared with the idea of assisting embroidery workers to a clearer understanding of some of the fundamental stitches used in embroidery work and to explain the usual manner in which they are made so that they may be mastered without difficulty. This article presupposes a knowledge of the ordinary plain sewing stitches on the part of the worker, and for this reason no explanation is given as to the manner of making them. It also presupposes a knowledge of the ordinary fabrics and thread in common use in the Philippines, for it is of vital im· portance to have all work done with the proper kinds of materials and implements. By no means is this an exhaustive article on the subject of embroidery stitches. Different phases of this work will be taken up from time to time and discussed in detail. It is not necessary for the beginner to learn to apply all of the stitches described before doing practical work. It is a good plan to obtain a thorough understanding and mastery of a few stitches before going on to others. By carefully selecting the pattern in accordance with the stitches already learned, the beginner can do acceptable work from the very first. First-class work done with cheap materials is not advisable whether the work is intended for sale or for the personal use of the worker. Close attention should be given to the selection and the grading of the designs used, in order that they may be in accordance with the ability and training of the needleworker. Great care should be taken in comparing the thread with the texture of the cloth at hand and the character of the design to be reproduced. Too often fine embroidery work has been ruined by the use of inappropriate needles, inartistic designs~ or a faulty selection of cloth. The first thing to be observed in making most embroidery designs is the proper framing of the material, as the funda. 116567 569 570 THE PHILIPPINE CRAFTSM.4N mental principle of the art of embroidery lies in the condition of the ground~work upon which the design is to be imposed.' The embroiderer must rely on a tight surface on which to place the stitches and not on the possibility of being able to overcome the faults of drawing and looping by the use of a hot iron after the work is finished. The usual way of obtaining the required surface is to stretch the cloth by means of a bar frame. Wooden hoops are also serviceable. If a hoop is used, however, it should be held by clamps so that both hands may be free to manipulate the needle and thread. Too often the worker does not give sufficient attention to the drawing of designs. The production of good embroidery is PLATE I. Tho PrOP<r melhnd of framing embroidery. a hopeless task if the work, no matter how good it may be, is done on a faulty design. An embroidery design which is intended to suggest the natural does not do so merely because it is an actual copy, but because it brings out some of the little characteristics by which the original is known. An embroidery design should give evidence in itself of its origin. The placing of the design on the material is also a matter of importance, especially in the making of shirt waists. Very often the designs for the cuffs and collars are so placed that.jn cutting out the waist according to the pattern it is necessary to add additional cloth to prevent cutting into the designs. This 'All of the embroideries illustrated in this article were made in the School of Household Industries, l\lani!a. SO.l!E E.l!BROIDERY STITCHES AND THEIR USES 571 can easily be avoided by cutting off a strip 6 inches wide from the end of the cloth (assuming that the cloth is 1 yard wide). This gives a strip of cloth 6 inches \vide and 36 inches long. In the center of the first 18 inches is placed the design for the collar, and in the remaining 18 inches the design for t.he two cuffs, so that each will be in the center of the two 9-inch spaces. In placing the waist design it should be remembered that the end of the cloth is always fastened to the top of the embroidery frame and that the highest point of the design should be placed 5 inches from the end of the cloth. It should also be in the exact center of the frame from left to right. Among many embroidery workers the tendency toward the complex in design and execution is a serious fault. The design should be simple, and in its execution judgment should be exercised as to the kind of stitches to be used. Frequently an article which contains splendid examples of the various embroidery stitches is itself a failure as an example of artistic work. The value of an embroidered article is sometimes ruined by placing an elaborate design on a small article or by executing a design placed on sheer cloth with coarse thread. High-class embroidery is always in demand and, while it is true that certain stitches are at times more popular than others, yet this is but a transitory decree of fashion which does not in any way restrict the sale of high-class, artistic embroidery. Commonplace embroidery is ever subject to the whims of fashion both as to the designs employed and the stitches used. For this reason the work done by the ordinary embroidery workers should be in keeping with the popular demand. In preparing embroidery for sale great care should be exercised in the matter of washing, pressing, and folding it. When small embroidery articles are to be washed they are first allowed to soak in cold water until all stains caused by perspiration disappear, after which they are washed well with soapsuds and rinsed thoroughly in clean water. When the soap has been entirely washed out they are again put in thick soapsuds for six hours, during which time they are exposed to the sun and then rinsed in clear water. The articles are now placed in water mixed with bluing and alum. After remaining a short time they should be wrung out and ironed on the wrong side until dry. 572 THE PHILIPPINE CRAFTS.llAN Large articles are washed in the same manner as small ones, except that the former are kept in a frame during the washing process and until they are dry, after which they may be ironed on the wrong side. Piiia ~ embroidery is washed with clear water while it is still in the frame, after which it is rubbed well with soap and then allowed to stand in the hot sunlight for one-half hour. This process is repeated until the article is clean. Clean water is poured over the article until the soap is entirely removed. The article is again placed in the sun until dry, after which it is removed from the frame and ironed on the wrong side. If the pifia is old it should be placed in fermented rice water and allowed to soak for twelve hours. It is then cleaned in the manner described above. All classes of embroidery, when ironed, should be laid with wrong side up on a soft blanket or pad and ironed with a hot iron. Care should be taken to have the blanket or pad on which the ironing is done sufficiently thick and soft to avoid giving a fiat crushed appearance to the design. Before an article can be classed as entirely finished it should be neatly folded and pressed so as to lie fiat with the full design exposed. A piece of very light-brown paper should be placed under the top fold so as to bring out the details of the embroidery stitches. Embroidered articles have a tendency to become yellow if exposed to the light for a long time. This may be avoided if they are wrapped in dark-blue paper. Ol"TJ,lNE Olt s·rE:\1 STlT('II. The outline or stem stitch is usually the first to be taken up by beginners in embroidery. It is used primarily in covering outlines but may be employed in nearly all forms of embroidery. In embroidery work the threads should never be knotted. Instead, two or three running stitches should be taken in the opposite direction from which the work will continue. These stitches being immediately worked over, the thread is thus secured. The outline stitch is worked from left to right in the manner illustrated in Plate II, figure 1. On a straight or slightly curved line all stitches must be uniform in length. In rounding sharp curves smaller stitches are required, the length of the stitch depending upon the kind of material used. Parallel 'A fine fabric woven from the fiber obtained from the pineapple plant. It is delicate, soft, and transparent, with a tinge of pale ~·ellow. SOME E.l!BROIDERI' STITCHES AND THEIR USES 573 rows of about nine stitches laid closely together make an excellent surface-covering stitch for one who is not proficient in Kensington stitch.3 ('11.\I X S'I' I T(' II , The chain stitch (see Plate II, fig. 2) is used in place of the stem stitch for small subjects which are merely outlined, or for outlining bigger ones filled in with flat stitches. It is worked toward the embroiderer with the threads secured by running stitches at the end of the stamped line. The needle is then brought to the right side of the material, which is held over the finger. The thread is held down with the left thumb and the Cfc!t ,,, "•' ~ needle inserted in the same hole where the stitch began. Thus the thumb forms the thread into a loop. A stitch is then taken downward and the needle brought up on the stamped line inside of the loop, and drawn through. Each successive stitch is made in the same manner, the needle being inserted inside the lastmade link of the stitch. In order to do neat work stitches of uniform length must be made. 'Credit is given to the Butterick Publishing Company for the use of some of the information taken from Volume II, No. 3, of the Butterick Designs. 574 THE PHILIPPINE CRAFTSMAN CUl1l'll Ol' T I.,I:OOE. The couch outline (see Plate II, fig. 3) is made with two sets of thread, the one being laid or couched on the surface of the fabric by means of small stitches made over it with a second thread. An unbroken line is thus obtained and a cord or group fig. I. fig. 2. F"ig. 3. Fig. 5. Fig. G. of threads used which would not be practical for lhrough·and-through stitching. The end of the cord is attached to the wrong side of the material by pushing it through with a stiletto or other pointed instrument. This end is held tight with thj left hand and fastened with single stitches which span it at regular intervals throughout its en t i r e length. These stitches must be close together so as to prevent the cord from springing out of position. On a c u r v e they must be closer than when in a straight line. This is a very useful and effective embroidery stitch, and is frequently used in putting small braids on dresses. Ht ""I"I"O:OO II OLE. The buttonhole stitch (see Plate II, fig. 4) is us u a II y employed in working scallops. It is worked from left to right along the surface of the material, which should not be cut awUy until the work is completed and laundered. When making scallops on doilies care should be taken that they are not too near the edge of the material. Sometimes no padding is used in making the scallops. However, in most cases, its use is advisable, SOME £.1/BRO!DERl' STITCHES AND T/1£/R USES 575 as the raised work is more durable and effective than that which is not padded. The margins of the scallops must be closely run before they are worked. A framework is padded in by the use of several rows of running stitches, their number and length depending upon the size of the scallop. The work is held so that the stitches are always upright with the purl edge of the buttonholes toward the worker. The thread is brought to the right side of the material on the inside edge of the stamped line. With the material over the finger and the thread held down with the left thumb, the needle is inserted close to the starting point and the downward stitch taken to the stamped line of the scalloped base. The needle is then drawn through the loop formed by holding the thread. The work is continued by always holding the thread and continuing to make the downward stitches and laying them closely s i de by side. Their direction changes slightly, owing to the curved line of the scallop. The Wallachian stitch, as illustrated by Plate II, figure 5, is only another form of the buttonhole stitch. The stitches are placed with the purl edge on the outline, the stitch being finished in a line PL.ATE IV. An embroldored h•ndhg. along the central vein through the figure. As illustrated, the stitches are slightly slanted; however, many people prefer to make them upright at right angles to the line of direction in which the person is working. Work is begun at the lower part of the figure and proceeds toward the left. This stitch is used especially in embroidering large floral designs. With it one can cover a large space in a very short time. W.\I;L .H'II I.\ X E\"ELET. The Wallachian eyelet (see Plate If, fig. 6) and the method of executing it are almost identical with that of the buttonhole. All stitches are evenly spaced and combined, and point to a common center. If an open hole is desired the inner circle 576 THE PHIUPPINE CRAFTSMAN is first run and the material punched with a stiletto, after which the buttonholing is made, the stitch being taken through the hole made by the stiletto. This stitch is very effective and is quickly made. It shows up very well on coarse materials. SI:X(; I,E J ... \ CE: O tt X l~T STITC H . The singJe.Jace or net stitch is only one of the many stitches that may be developed from ordinary buttonholing. It is made by laying several rows of loose buttonhole stitches side by side. The first row is made of loose, even stitches, the length depending upon the size of the design and fineness of thread used. The first stitch of the second row is placed midway between r;g.sa. F~. Sb. those of the line above, the needle being put over the base of the stitches of the row above. Plate V, figure 1, plainly illustrates the manner in which the succeeding rows of stitches are made. If the needle is put over this base but on a line with it and not pulled down, the result will be bricking. The stitch is simple, easily made, and serves for filling in large surfaces. UOL'Ili.F. J,.\CE OR N"ET STITCH. The double-lace stitch is made in the same manner as the single-lace stitch, except that in each loop two buttonhole stitches instead of one are made. These stitches should be laid close SOME EMBROIDERY STITCHES AND THEIR USES 577 together. It is always better to round the loop a little less than is ordinarily done in the single stitch. (See Plate V, fig. 2.) Tlli.\XGVL,\It Ut:'I''I'OX IIOI; IXG. Triangular buttonholing is simple and is very easily accomplished, especially within definite parallel boundary lines as illustrated in Plate V, figure 3, or in those of the scallop formation. The purl edge of the buttonhole stitches must always be in a straight line and the first stitch of the triangle be close to and PLATE VI, An embroiCered w•l•l ftonl, rou design. parallel with the purling of the completed triangle above it. Care must be taken to make the stitches uniform throughout. Conventional ribbons and many other similar designs may be embroidered with this stitch. In beginning a small area, as the end of scallop form, the single-feather stitch should be used with triangle formation, starting as soon as the space permits. lii' ~XS IXGTOX ST IT("!I. The Kensington stitch (see Plate V, fig. 4) has the appearance of massed long and short stitches. It is easily worked 578 THE PHILIPPINE CRAPTSMAN into a long and short margining of a leaf or petal. The beginning is made at the top of the figure and worked toward the button with a long stitch on the right side of the cloth and a short stitch on the wrong side. This is simply a form of back stitching. Three or four stitches are worked downward and then the same number up again. This is repeated until the desired space has been filled. All stitches must be closely wedged together so as to cover entirely the underlying material. No attempt should be made to use the stitch when the material is not tightly stretched in a hoop or frame. The direction of the stitches is of the utmost importance. They must always conform to the outline and undulations of the form attained. Where the change is constant and the form subtle, long sketching stitches may be first laid to guide after efforts. They may afterwards be ripped out and worked over. Shading of petals should be as natural as possible. The curled or turned-up edges of the petals are padded. The embroiderer should always take into consideration the relation of these curled edges to the petal when laying the stitches, remembering that they are so placed that if the curled part were flattened out to its original position, the stitches would point toward the base of the petal. The double coral or feather stitch is nothing more than an elaboration of the simple feather stitch. (See Plate V, fig. 5a.) It is an essential of both plain sewing and embroidery and is one that requires a great deal of practice. The stitching which is merely buttonholing is done toward the worker. These stitches are arranged apart, a series being made first on one side and then on the other. Simple feather stitch readily covers a straight stamped line, but the fancy one (see Plate V, fig. 5b) should have the lines specially stamped. In doing this work the needle is started at the top, the thread being drawn through from the wrong side and held with the thumb. The needle, slanted to the left, is inserted at the right of the starting point and drawn through the cloth and over the thread held by the thumb. Care must be taken not to draw the stitches too tight. The second buttonhole stitch is made in the same manner so that the purl edge of the two stitches will be in a straight Jin.-e. The thread is now thrown toward the left, held down with the thumb, and a slanting stitch made from left to right. The thread is drawn through the loop in the same manner as the "first stitch and the operation repeated, merely alternating from right to SOJIE EMBROIDERY STITCHES AND THEIR t.:SES 579 left and from left to right. Other effects may be obtained by varying the slanting and the spacing of the stitches. However, uniformity in regard to length of stitches must be maintained PLATE VII. A dol•ll of Pl•le Vl•nowlng uuo of tho "••ioul tlltchu. throughout. The number of buttonhole stitches may be increased on each side of the line if a wider stitch is desired. 580 THE PHILIPPINE CRAFTS.lJAN \'.\ :\' Unil~. \', O H IUJ, Ii.\ X S'I' ITC II . Van Dyke, V, or Balkan stitch, as it is variously called, is an excellent one to use for leaf and petal forms in work not of naturalistic design. It consists of a series of V forms set closely beside each other. These may be graduated in size to conform to an outline. Work is begun near the top. The needle is inserted from the underside of the left outline and drawn through, and then inserted as shown in (a) Plate V, figure 6. The thread is held the same as in buttonholing and feather stitching. The method is exactly the same as in the first stitch of feather stitch, but in Van Dyke the stitch (s drawn into a V s h a p e and secured at the base with a single seed stitch. Succeeding V stitches are placed with seed stitches direct in line, and if there is no central line in the fonn to guide, the worker should draw one so as to facilitate her efforts. Steps (a). (b). (c). and (d) show the method of making these stitches. The Van Dyke stitch may be used with equally good effect in both floral and conventional designs. Two or three rows of them may be worked side by side if space permits. J·:\' Jo:L £ '1' !:''I'ITeiL The eyelet stitch is made by whipping over and over a number of running stitches which border an eyelet or hole to be embroidered. These running stitches should be small. In large eyelets the solid outline is usually made by running around twice as shown in Plate X, figure 1. When embroidering small eyeSOME EMBROIDERY STITCHES AND THEIR USES 581 lets many workers usually make an outline and then punch through the material with a stiletto, working it around until the cloth is pushed back to the run line. In case of a large eyelet the center is quartered and each of the four points halved and then folded back. Oval eyelets are cut lengthwise and across through the widest portion. T h e y are then stitched over and over the running line and through the hole. The stitches should be made even and pulled tight enough to keep the material rolled inside of the whipping. When the eyelet is finished the stiletto should be inserted from the underside of the material, and twisted around several times to raise the eyelet and make it round. S.\ 'r!N S'L'IT<:H. The satin stitch is very well known and is used throughout the Philippines in making the solid stitches of French embroidery. It consists of not h i n g more t h a n stitches closely laid side by side spanning the entire width of the form to be embroidered. When well executed it gives a smooth surface; hence its name, satin stitch. It is never suited to unbroken surfaces wider than the feasible length of a single stitch, although theoretically it may extend to any length. It is useful for embroidering petals, leaves, stems, monograms, etc. The stitches may be 582 THE PHIUPPINE CRAFTS,l!AN either straight or slanting, depending upon the design embroidered. The stitches are made either toward or away from the worker, but the needle should be brought up on the left-hand edge and inserted on the right-hand edge of the design. Many workers make the entire stitch by inserting the needle on the right-hand side of the design and bringing it out at the left as shown in the figure. However, many of the expert Filipino workers draw the needle and the thread through the right-hand edge of the border before inserting the needle in the left edge. No attempt should be made to do this work unless the material is stretched tightly in a hoop or a frame. Embroidering a curnd form necessitates the crowding of stitches along the smaller side of the figure; to maintain the same relative slanting throughout the work requires considerable practice and attention. When embroidering leaves, the stitches are usually laid obliquely to the midrib of the leaf. The raised satin stitch is worked exactly as shown in Plate X, figure 2. The Chinese employ the satin stitch to a great extent, but in most cases they use no padding. Yet, in a great deal of high-grade work padding is employed to good advantage. An outline is first run over the entire surface of the form with flat, even, running stitches. Over these is placed the satin stitch. lt should always be remembered that the appearance of the work will depend to a great extent upon the uniformity of the padding stitches. Many people lay the padding stitches in a loose and flimsy manner. When this is done it is difficult to obtain even work. The relief may be raised to any height by successive layers of padding, or by going over it with chain stitches or running stitches. However, it is not best to use too much padding. The padding is laid in the opposite direction to the satin stitch to prevent the latter from sinking into the former. Some people make the mistake of permitting much padding to appear on the underside of the embroidered surface. This should be avoided, for it makes a rough and bulky finish. In a veined leaf the padding is laid in two sections, the outlines of each being run separately. Each section is covered with the satin stitch, the division between the sections forming the vein. Often in the case of very wide sections they may be broken ahd worked out in two parts as when making petals. TilE •1THiiiS II OH (•XI' ST ITC H. The Turkish or cat stitch (see Plate X, fig. 3) is easily made by anyone who knows the first principles of sewing. SO.l!E E.l!BROIDERl' STITCHES AND THEIR t.:SES 583 When this stitch is employed on the wrong side of the material it is known as shadow work. Fine or close meshes may be made, depending upon the kind of material used . .For fine lawn, pearline, or batiste this embroidery is very efrective when worked on the w1·ong side of the materinl and allowed to show through on the right side. I'O::;T OH Hl11,L IOX STITCII. The post or bullion stitch is not difficult, nevertheless it is most ornate and beautiful. It is usually used in embroidering designs like wheat, barley, and for small patterns composed of little flowers and leaves as well as for the star formation illustJ·ated in Plate X, figure 4. The needle is inserted in the material as shown in the figure. Before it is pulled through, the thread is wound around a sufficient number of times to cover the length of stitch taken. Care should be taken not to wind the thread too tight. The needle is now pulled through the coil while the thread is held with the left thumb. When the coil has been properly placed it is necessary to stitch back again on the wrong side close to the starting point. If a short stitch is taken up on the needle and the same number of coils maintained, the result is called looped bullion stitch. After one or two 11666j..:..._~ 584 THE PHIUPPI.\'E CR.4PTSM.4.N stitches are made the worker can easily determine whether it is necessary to add or take away from the coils on the needle. If there are too many coils the stitch kinks. If there are not enough the stitch is 1·ough and uneven. FHE"'(' II 1{:000T. The French knot is a very useful embroidery stitch and is used for various lines of work. It is especially useful for embroidering the tops of pistils in floral designs. There are almost as many methods of making the stitch as there are u s e s for it. l\1 an y workers usually make the mistake by not having the knots lie close to the fabric. A c I o s e - lying knot is obtained if the stitch is made in the manner illustrated in Plate X, figure 4. These knots are very easily made if an embroidery hoop or frame is used. 0 n I y a few threads should be u p o n t h e needle when it is inserted, according to the first figure. The thread is held down with the left thumb as in buttonholing before the second stitch is made. It is passed around under the needle point, always being held with the left thumb. While the thread is still held with the thumb the needle is pulled through and a coil is formed When the needle is inserted again close to this knot it is completed. 1.0~(; .\XIl S II OH'I' S'I'ITCH. The long and short stitch is used to a great extent in shat1ing the edges of leaves, petals, etc. (See Plate X, fig. 6.) It is a compromise between outlining and solid embroidery. Tt demands constant changes in the length of stitches and the way in which they are laid. Considerable practice is necessary beSO.l!E E.llBROIDERY STITCHES AND THEIR t.; SES 585 fore good results can be obtained. Work should be begun at the base of a leaf or petal and continued up the side in successive over and over stitches. The first few stitches are irregular on the inner edge and are clear cut on the outer. This even edge must always be maintained on the outside margin. However, the long and short stitch presents a great irregularity on the inside. A great number of workers sometimes begin at the outer edge of a petal and work toward the base. This method is just as good as the one stated above. The length of the stitch is regulated by the size of the thread employed. Padding i s frequently used in embroidering the heavy edges of petals. During recent months this stitch has become very popular in embroidering flowers, and to a great extent has taken the place of solid embroidery f o r t h i s work. won~x B.\HS. Woven bars stitches woven between two or more threads and are easily made. The end of the thread is fastened to one edge of the material a n d PLATE XII. Some good h• ndkerchlof du lgn1. passed to the next edge and back to the original starting place. This makes two lines which correspond to the warp used in a loom. The weaving is done with a needle as illustrated in Plate X1ll, figure 1. Buttonhole bars are used in making lace and Roman cut work. The foundation of the bar is made in the same manner as the woven bar. A row of buttonhole stitches is worked over the bar as shown in Plate XIII, figure 2. When making this stitch 586 THE PHILIPPINE CRAFTSMAN the needle is passed under the bar from the top and the thread placed under the needle. Care should be taken to pull the stitches tight. The operation is repeated until the bar i$ en· tirely covered. 'I'W I!-iTEII 1\,\lt~. Twisted bars are easily and quickly made and used to a great extent in lace work to fill in an open space and hold together two edges as in the plain Russian stitch. They are also frequently used to fill in long eyelets in waists, etc. The thread is fastened to the braid and taken over from one F;~. 5. ,~, ~\ F;g. 3. side to the other. The needle is pointed downward from above and the first thread overcast as often as is uecessary to give the two threads the appearance of a twisted cord. 1f the overcasting stitches are not close enough the bars will appear loose and untidy, thus spoiling the general effect of the work. When the first bar is finished the overcasting stitches are continued beyond the edge of the braid to the place where the next b~r begins. Sometimes in making these bars three threads instead of two are carried across the empty space and overcast, though not so closely as the bars described above. Plate XIII, figure 3, illustrates the manner in which these stitches are made. SO.l!E E.l!BRO!DERl" STITCHES AND THEIR USES 587 U.\B.\"1 .\"(0 STITt." ll . The darning stitch (See Plate XIII, fig. 4) is very simple and is familiar to every needlewoman. 1t is a running stitch made in rows, the stitches of the different rows alternating with each other. Care must be taken that all stitches are of uniform length and are evenly laid. ln ordinary white material the stitch should be taken over a certain number of threads. In this way it is not difficult to obtain uniformity throughout. This stitch is usually used in embroidering designs on ladies' gowns. SEJ<:U I XG. The seed stitch is one of the most useful ones employed in embroidery. 1t is nothing more or less than a tiny back stitch done at regular intervals in rows, each stitch being placed to alternate with the stitches in the previous row as shown in Plate XIII, figure 5. The regularity and evenness of the work constitutes its chief beauty. It is very effective when combined with the long and short stitch in making leaves and flowers. lt is frequently used to a great advantage in combination with the satin stitch, one-half of the leaf or ribbon being done in satin stitch and the other half, in seeding. Letters or monograms are frequently made with the background entirely filled with seeding and the outline covered with a fine, delicate satin or whipping stitch. Very good effects may be obtained by working the seed stitches on top of satin stitches. This is frequently done in making initials and the stems of flowers. 1,.\Z\' .)) \I~Y STI'IT II . The lazy-daisy stitch is only a different application of the buttonhole stitch. Each petal is made by a single buttonhole stitch, which is then held in place by a couching stitch taken over it at the point. The thread is brought up to the right side of the material at the center of the daisy petal. In the buttonhole stitch the length of the entire petal is taken. A short stitch catches the buttonhole stitch down to the material at the point of the petal as shown in Plate XIIf, figure 6. The stitch is a very effective one, usually well known to good embroiderers, and requires but little practice to make it well. l'HE'\t."ll STEM ST I'I't'll. The French stem stitch is used where a heavier appearance than ordinary outline is desired. A foundation is necessary for this stitch. This foundation is frequently made with the outline stitch. (See Plate XVIII, fig. 1.) However, the darning or 588 THE PHIUPPI.VE CRAFTS.IIAN SOME EMBROIDERl' STITCHES AND THEIR USES 589 590 THE PHJUPPINE CRAFTS.If..tN filling-in stitch is sometimes used. When the line is covered with either of the above-mentioned stitches, it is worked over with satin stitches and laid close together. It is whipped over the outlining and not caught in the material at all. The needle simply passes under the outline thread, covering it entirely. The French stem stitch is used to a great extent for white embroidery especially for lingerie, initials, and monograms. Often the outline stitch alone is used in making stems. However, a better appearance is made if this outline stitch is covered with the French stem stitch. 1'1..\ I X HI'SS I AX ST IT('II OH 1·' \f;UT I X(;, Like the twisted bars, the plain Russian stitch is used to a great extent in connecting braids and filling in spaces. There are a great number of these stitches. Some are of a very elementary nature, while others are difficult and demand great skill and patience in their execution. However, only three of the Fig. 4. Fi_;S. Fig. G. easiest ones are illustrated here. When making this stitch the needle is stuck downwards under the opposite edge, care beirw taken to keep the thread in front of the needle. The stitches must always be the same distance apart, or else the work will appear uneven. In the execution of the twisted Russian stitch the needle, instead of being passed behind the thread, is passed in front SO.IIE E:.IIBROIDERY STITCHES AND THEIR t..:SES 591 and around it so that it comes out again under the thread, which is then t w i s ted twice. The lower part of the column stitch is the same as the plain Russ i a n stitch described in Plate XVI IT, figure 2a. PLATE: XIX. An embroid~••d J>ifta candle ahade. The only difference between this stitch and the Russian stitch is that the second thread is twisted three times around the first. <"HO~S STI'I"("II. Cross stitch (see Plate XVIII, fig. 3) is used to a great extent for decorating table covers, workbags, runners, aprons, and, in fact, any material that has an even weave. However, at times it is used on other materials but first a piece of coarse-weave material must be basted over the part to be cross-stitched and the design transferred to it. After the work is completed the threads of the basted part are pulled out, leaving only the crossstitch work on the original material. A blunt long-eyed tapestry needle is most practical for this work. The size of the thread varies with the kind of material used. It should be heavy enough to fill the mesh of the background completely. Crossstitch designs are frequently worked in canvas, soft wools, or silk, and when they are finished the entire back ground is filled in with this stitch in a contrasting shade, thus covering the whole surface with cross-stitch. PLATE: xx. Pliia cent<tJ>i<co and dolllu. While this stitch is not used to 592 THE PHIL/PP/.1\'E CRAFTSMAN PLATEXXI. Apinadoily. SOME EMBROIDERY STITCHES AND THEIR USES 593 a great extent on articles made in the schools of the Philippines, it will be valuable for cuffs, collars, etc. Several patterns for cross-stitch work are shown in the December issue of THE P HILIPPINE CRAFTSMAN. ll.\:\1.\ S I( ST ITC H . Damask stitch (see Plate XVIII, fig. 4) is used extensively for filling in large, open spaces. It is bold in character and similar to l\Iountmellick work. Work is begun at the end of a leaf or petal and the thread laid across the design on the slant or straight at even distances. After these threads are laid, anPille XXIII. Dobil shawlng the embroidered edge of a piiia centerpiece. other row is placed across them as shown in Plate XVIII, figure 4. Where the lines cross each other a small cross is made to fasten down the threads securely. These crosses are made wherever two lines intersect. It is not necessary to carry the thread across the space underneath preparatory to making a new line, but the needle is stuck in on the same side of the outline from which the thread is brought up. The edge of the design decorated with damask stitch should be worked with the outline or the couch stitch. The pyramid stitch (see Plate XVIII, fig. 5) is another of the many applications of the buttonhole stitch. If made on a 594 THE PHIL/PPI.\'E CRAFTS.IIAN straight or slightly curved edge small pyramids are formed. The size of the pyramids is a matter that the workers have to decide. However, it is never advisable to make the longest line more than 6 mm. long. Each succeeding line should be about 1 mm. shorter than the previous one. Four lines of buttonhole stitches are necessary for each pyramid. The first stitch is made like the regular buttonhole, the thread being kept under the needle to form the loop. The next stitches are made in the same way but a trifle shorter and placed about l mm. apart. After the four stitches have been made a new triangle or pyramid is begun. The first stitch of the pyramid is always the longest one. WU\'EX ::>L'lUEH UH WEU S'l'lTt..'ll. The woven spider or web stitch is used to fill in spaces, especially in drawn work. The foundation lines or webs may be made of twisted or plain bars. If they are twisted and uneven in number the weaving may be begun in the center and carried out in rows as shown in Plate XVIII, figure 6. A great number of designs may be obtained by using this form of stitch. ~IX \\".\Y::. 01•' .'\1 \liiXG IIOTS. Dots, when well made, are exceedingly effective in white embroidery, particularly if they are worked in a variety of stitches. Dot A (Plate Plate xx1 v. Six method• of em. XXIV) is worked in raised satin stitch; B, in raised satin stitch, framed in backstitch; C, in raised satin stitcjl, framed in French knot stitch; D is composed of several poSt stitches of different lengths, set in a frame of stem stitches; E is worked in backstitch outlined with overcast; and F consists SO.IIE E.l!BROIDERY STITCHES AND THE'IR GSES 595 of a small eyelet hole which forms the center, framed with the overcasting stitches.• I~ I T I ,\ 1. 1-:.\IBI:O I IH·:H'' · There are various forms of initial embroidery requiring the combination of various forms of stitches. However, only one form is taken up here. This kind of embroidery requires careful work and much practice is necessary to attain good results. The method for French embroidery letters is shown in the initial W. The outlines of all solid parts of a letter are first run and the other parts outlined. Good work can not be obtained unless considerable attention is given to padding. If this is poorly done the finished initial is rough and uneven. The satin stitch is used in working over the padding and outline portions by beginning at the top and working downward as indicated in Plate XXV, figures 1 and 2. The use of the seed stitch is also shown in this figure. These useful stitches are backstitches worked lengthwise on the letter. The stitching is done toward the worker with the forward stitch on the right side of the cloth and a long backward one on the wrong side. The stitches of successive rows are placed midway below and between those of the row above. The margins of portions filled with seed stitches are either worked in plain outline stitch or lined with a tiny line of satin stitches, whipped over a single thread. Seeding in initials is generally used in combination with satin stitch. Sometimes a whole letter will be brought out in this manner, ' Some of the information !'elative to making dots and hemstitches has been taken from the Encyclopedia of Needlewo1·k published by the Modern Pdscil\a, Boston, Ma~s. 596 THE PHILIPPIXE CRAFTSMAN fig. G. Some hemotitc~u. with others done entirely in satin stitch, but more often both stitches are used in the same letter. In the letter H the uses of the various fancy stitches are shown. In its upper portion are tiny dots evenly spaced a n d surrounded with a circle of seeds. In the latter portion the dots are a trine larger and seeding is laid in the usual manner. These I etters must be outlined as in the case with the seeded port i o n s . Oftentimes t h e Van Dyke stitch is found useful in embroidering letters. Its possibilities are illustrated in the upper left-hand part of the letter l\f. The plain feat h e r stitch, compact or spaced, is useful and it is desirous when quick results are wanted. However, it is not often found on highgrade work. Catstitching is another familiar expedient. When making this stitch the needle points toward the worker in the tiny stitch taken first on the right and then on the left hand side of the stamping line. The outline stitch is used to confine the featherstitch and the oatstitch. The satin stitch with grooves evenly spaced is very attractive in initials. Its method is illustrated in the letter M. SO.l!E E.llBROIDERY STITCHES AND THEIR USES 597 Care must be taken that the grooves are perfectly straight. This can be done without much trouble if the line of the material is followed. SI~GLE lll•:!'IJSTI'L'Ctr. When making the single hemstitch from two to four threads should be drawn out above the edge of the turning and the hem tucked down to two threads above the isolated threads. The thread is fastened on the left and the needle slipped in from right to left under four or five isolated threads. It is now drawn out and put upwards from below under one or two threads of the folded edge as illustrated in Plate XXVI, figure 1. This stitch is frequently used for preventing the fringes of tablecloths and napkins from unravelling. SECOXI) III~MS'rl'l'('ll, The second hemstitch (see Plate XXVI, fig. 2) is made in the same manner as the preceding one and worked from left to right. The only difference is that after the needle is passed under three vertical threads it is then stuck into the hem downwards from above over two threads so that it comes out exactly at the sharp edge of the fold. These stitches which can also be made on the right side of a piece of work appear like a little cord at the bottom of the hem. J,,\J)IH;:n, IIE.\ISTITC'If. After the hem is finished as illustrated in Plate XXVI, figure 1, a few more threads are drawn out from the material. The work is then turned around and the second row of stitches similar to the first one is made. The threads are grouped together in the same manner forming perpendicular bars like the rungs of a ladder and as illustrated in Plate XXVI, figure 3. Sl-~llPK"TIXF. IIE!'IIS1'1'1TII, The work (see Plate XXVI, fig. 4) is begun as illustrated in Plate XXVI, figure 1, an equal number of threads always being taken up. In the second row of stitches half the threads of one cluster and half of the next are picked up together so as to divide the bars, thus making the cluster threads first slant in one way and then in another forming a serpentine line . . \XTJQL'F. IIE.\fS'fiTCH. In the handsome old linen embroideries, dating from the days of the Renaissance one often sees two ways of making a hem, 598 THE PHIUPPINE CRAFTSJ!AN rarely to be found described in modern manuals of needlework. Plate XXVI, figures 5 and 6, illustrate these two openwork hems on a magnified scale. When the work is begun, a thread should be drawn out sufficiently far from the edge so as to allow room for an ordinary hem (in transparent or very fine materials no threads should be drawn out). The edge is then rolled; it must not be folded. The thread is fastened in at the left and the stitches made from right to left as follows: Take vertical threads of the rolled hem. then draw out and pass under the hem bringing it out again in the middle of the threads which are to form the next cluster. The result is that when a cluster consists of four threads the needle is brought out in the middle of the four and one thread below the top edge of the rolled hem. Plate XXVI shows this hem on the right side. l:.'ducation that pays its 1my.-"lndustrial work in the schools of Gary, Ind., made money instead of costing money during the past year," says Dr. P. P. Claxton, United States Commissioner of Education. "When the school authorities in Gary came to sum up the results of the work in the trade courses, they found that the three departments of printing, cabinetwork, and paint. ing had to their credit a profit of $875.48. This is real value. too; the pupils made articles that were needed in the school; if they had not made them in the school shops the authorities would have had to purchase them in the open market at a total price of seven or eight thousand dollars." The Commissioner then gives the figures for each of the trade classes in the Gary schools, as reported by G. E. \Vulfing, in charge of the industrial instruction. In the printing depart· ment the value of the work produced was $1,972.92. The salary expense was $1,483.49 and supplies cost $314.00 leaving a net balance in favor of the shop of $175.43. There were 35 in the printing class, so instead of figuring tho:! per capita cost of the industrial training of these pupils, it was possible to figure a definite contribution by each pupil to the wealth of the community. Instruction in elementary mining is recommended by the Brit. ish Board of Education for schools in mining districts. It is suggested that such instruction can be most effectively given, not in separate and detached lessons, but in connection with the regular school subjects.